Saturday 20 October 2012

The Kallawayas: A hospitable bunch


I never cease to be surprised by how hospitable the people in my fieldsite are towards me. Very rarely do I visit someone and not receive a meal almost immediately. This can be quite annoying if I pay a visit shortly after lunch, and am consequently already pretty full and in no need of extra sustenance. Quite regularly I have to turn down food offered to me, telling my host that three bowls of soup and a plate full of potatoes is about sufficient for me, because as soon  as one finishes a bowl, a refill is immediately on the agenda. 

At a Kallawaya wedding I`ve been to, the most popular presents to give to the bride and groom were bags of blankets and sets of plates. I took this as further evidence for the hospitality of the Kallawayas, with such presents helping the couple of cater for the many guests they would presumably welcome into their home. 

Earlier in the year, I and a Dutch girl (who along with three friends from Sweden was staying in the community for a couple of days) cooked breakfast for our host and her family. This amounted to ten plates of scrambled egg with onions, potatoes and bread (this was my idea of breakfast from what was available). There was exactly enough for each person who was there, which I thought was a job well done and I metaphorically patted myself on the back.

I was chastised by our host, who told me that I would not make a good father, because there wasn't anything left over in case visitors came. About 10 minutes later a visitor did arrive and there was nothing to offer them. Next time I cook breakfast I shall imagine myself to be feeding the five thousand.

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